Will Horowitz’s Watermelon Ham Recipe (2024)

Recipe from “Salt Smoke Time”

Adapted by Steven Raichlen

Will Horowitz’s Watermelon Ham Recipe (1)

Total Time
5 hours, plus 4 days’ brining and resting
Rating
4(367)
Notes
Read community notes

When Will Horowitz, a chef andan owner of Ducks Eatery in Manhattan, unveiled his watermelon ham in 2018, he sparked an Instagram revolution, inspiring foodies from as far away as Germany and Japan to try incarnadine slabs of his brined, smoked watermelon. It sure looked like ham, right down to the crosshatch scoring on the surface. It sure smelled like ham, fragrant with the smoky scent of hickory. It even had some of the briny umami tang you associate with ham. Though it didn’t really taste like ham, it did firmly establish plant-based charcuterie as a big thing. This watermelon “ham” starts with a tamari-herb brine, is smoked low and slow for the first four hours, then seared. This recipe is adapted from “Salt Smoke Time” by Will Horowitz, Julie Horowitz and with Marisa Dobson (William Morrow, 2018). —Steven Raichlen

Featured in: Charcuterie With All of the Smoke but None of the Meat

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Ingredients

Yield:8 servings

    For the Brined Watermelon

    • 1medium seedless watermelon (10 to 12 pounds)
    • 1cup wood ash (from your smoker or fireplace) or 2 teaspoons food-grade sodium hydroxide (lye) (see Note)
    • ¾cup kosher salt
    • ¼cup dried oregano leaves
    • 2tablespoons cracked black peppercorns
    • 4juniper berries, lightly crushed with the side of a cleaver or knife to release the flavor
    • 3whole cloves
    • 2fresh or dried bay leaves
    • ¾cup tamari

    For Smoking the “ham”

    • 2tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus 2 tablespoons for basting
    • 6garlic cloves, peeled
    • 4(4- to 5-inch) sprigs fresh rosemary
    • 2hardwood chunks or 1½ cups wood chips (if using the latter, soak in cold water for 30 minutes then drain), plus more as needed

Ingredient Substitution Guide

Nutritional analysis per serving (8 servings)

192 calories; 8 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 5 grams monounsaturated fat; 1 gram polyunsaturated fat; 30 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams dietary fiber; 21 grams sugars; 5 grams protein; 1657 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Will Horowitz’s Watermelon Ham Recipe (2)

Preparation

  1. Step

    1

    Prepare the watermelon: Using a sharp knife, cut the top and bottom off the watermelon, removing enough rind just to expose the red flesh. Stand the watermelon upright on one flat end and pare off the rind, cutting using long strokes of the knife from top to bottom. (The strips you remove will look like barrel staves.) Place the watermelon in large stockpot or bucket.

  2. Step

    2

    Prepare the brine: Add 2 quarts of water to a large pot along with the wood ash, salt, oregano, peppercorns, juniper berries, cloves and bay leaves; bring to a boil. Remove from heat, stir in another 4 quarts of water and let cool to room temperature. Once cooled, stir in the tamari. Pour the brine over the watermelon, placing a saucepan or other weight on top to keep the watermelon submerged. Transfer to the refrigerator and brine the watermelon for 4 days.

  3. Step

    3

    Transfer the brined watermelon to a wire rack set over a sheet pan. Let it rest in the refrigerator until the surface feels tacky, 4 hours.

  4. Step

    4

    Set up your smoker following the manufacturer’s directions and heat to 250 degrees. Alternatively, set up your charcoal grill for indirect grilling and heat to 250 degrees, using half the normal amount of charcoal (you need less charcoal to keep the heat low).

  5. Step

    5

    Spread 2 tablespoons olive oil in a sturdy foil pan large enough to hold the watermelon. Add the watermelon and arrange the garlic and rosemary alongside it in the pan.

  6. Step

    6

    If using a charcoal grill, add the wood chunks or chips to the coals. Place the watermelon in its pan in the smoker or on the grill grate. Smoke the watermelon for 2 hours, basting with the pan juices, replenishing the wood as needed.

  7. Step

    7

    Remove the watermelon and score the surface in a 1-inch diamond crosshatch pattern, just as you would a ham, cutting no more than ¼ inch deep.

  8. Step

    8

    Continue smoking the watermelon in the smoker or on the grill until the outside is firm and bronzed with smoke, 2 hours more, basting every 30 minutes with the pan juices and the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Remove the pan from the smoker or grill.

  9. Step

    9

    Finally, you’ll want to finish cooking at a high temperature to add color to the watermelon. If working on a grill, add more charcoal and heat it to high (400 degrees). If you have a smoker, increase the heat to 400 degrees, if your smoker will go that high. Alternately, you can finish the watermelon ham in an oven heated to 400 degrees.

  10. Step

    10

    Grill, smoke or roast the watermelon until darkly browned on the outside, basting with pan juices every 15 minutes, about 45 minutes. Allow the watermelon ham to cool slightly, about 15 minutes, before slicing. To serve, cut the ham crosswise into 1-inch slices. Spoon the pan juices over the watermelon and serve warm or cold.

Tip

  • You’ll need one ingredient for curing the watermelon that’s probably out of your wheelhouse: wood ash or sodium hydroxide. Both are sources of lye, which helps firm up the surface of the watermelon and give it a skin. If you burn wood in your smoker, pizza oven, or fireplace, you’ll have a ready supply of wood ash. (Make sure you’re burning hardwood.) If not, you can order food-grade sodium hydroxide online.

Ratings

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367

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Private Notes

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Cooking Notes

Tim Owens

This was a huge hit for our Labor Day dinner. Served with jerk chicken, grilled pineapple and coconut rice.The watermelon ham has an umami, smoky flavor and a very nice texture. It sliced at the table to a chorus of "oohs"!

FrankW`

Delicious eye opener regarding how chicken can be prepared. Made the recipe with a whole chicken, and it was fantastic. Doing it again right now with two skinless boneless chicken breasts. Adding aromatics to veggie stock and a bouquet de garni of peppercorns, marjoram, rosemary and thyme. Thank’s Bill.

Enrique

Be careful not to over smoke if you’re using an offset smoker. I would cut the smoke time in half and finish the rest in an oven or even remove the ash from the brine all together.

FrankW`

Delicious eye opener regarding how chicken can be prepared. Made the recipe with a whole chicken, and it was fantastic. Doing it again right now with two skinless boneless chicken breasts. Adding aromatics to veggie stock and a bouquet de garni of peppercorns, marjoram, rosemary and thyme. Thank’s Bill.

Tim Owens

This was a huge hit for our Labor Day dinner. Served with jerk chicken, grilled pineapple and coconut rice.The watermelon ham has an umami, smoky flavor and a very nice texture. It sliced at the table to a chorus of "oohs"!

Private notes are only visible to you.

Will Horowitz’s Watermelon Ham Recipe (2024)

FAQs

Who invented BBQ watermelon? ›

Devised by New York restaurant Ducks Eatery, the smoked watermelon is exactly what it says it is.

What is the texture of smoked watermelon? ›

“Its texture is where it really shines because it doesn't have those crisp little water pockets that explode in your mouth anymore, it's just this dense, meaty feel.” Through trial and error, Oleksiak perfected her method and now plates the smoked watermelon in a way that is especially Southern.

What does BBQ watermelon taste like? ›

Grilled watermelon sounded strange to me at first too, but the grill caramelizes the melon's sweetness and gives it a subtle, smoky flavor. Paired with a sweet and spicy seasoning, grilled watermelon can be an intriguing side dish or a surprising dessert.

Which country invented watermelon? ›

The first recorded watermelon harvest occurred in Egypt nearly 5000 years ago. Because of its great water content, early explorers used watermelons as canteens. The first cookbook published in the United States in 1796 contains a recipe for pickled watermelon rinds.

Does smoked watermelon taste like meat? ›

No. It tastes like watermelon. Its texture will firm up a bit as it loses water in the cooking process. Perhaps the new vegan meat hype.

Why does my watermelon feel like meat? ›

When watermelon gets mealy, it means that the natural juice inside the fruit has gone away and what's left is fruit that is soft, but no longer juicy or able to maintain its natural flavor. The texture inside your mouth can sometimes feel gritty.

What color is watermelon meat? ›

Flesh color can be red, pink, green, yellow and orange – there is even a white-flesh watermelon called White Wonder. Melons are a tender, warm-season annual that prefers a soil pH of 6.2 to 6.8.

Who invented pickled watermelon? ›

Pickled watermelon is a unique product with a distinctive flavor. Historically made seasonally by German immigrants to Russia who brined whole watermelons in wooden barrels, upon the invention of canning jars, they began pickling just the red part of the watermelon, unlike other ethnic groups who just pickle the rind.

Who invented pickled watermelon rind? ›

Patsy Randolph, an African American entrepreneur in Harlem during the Great Depression, collected watermelon rinds from street vendors and transformed them into pickles that she sold along with pepper sauces and relishes.

Who started mustard on watermelon? ›

The trend seems to have been started when singer-songwriter Lizzo duetted a video by a TikTok user known as @yayayayummy. Although it sounds random, there is a method to the madness. You can't just whack any old mustard on your melon and hope for the best.

Who invented BBQ flavor? ›

The first sauce they made was very simple. In 1698, a Dominican missionary named Père Labat visited the French West Indies and witnessed cooks using lime juice and hot peppers to season barbecued meat. This sauce probably had its roots in Africa where cooks traditionally used both lemon and lime juice.

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